Do you consider yourself hardcore? Would you cut your and modify your frame to fit bumpers? Then you are a Savvy Off Road bumper customer candidate.
So here’s the deal: this entire project was different from any other one we have done in the past. It’s the first project where we were contracted to create the directions for the product, and the most aggressive modification we have done to our primary Jeep.
I’m not going to break down the entire install, it’s too many steps and not that interesting. I will cover two very important things you need to know. Number one is you will remove the entire front mini cross member and the mounting horns for your stock bumper. Number two is you will remove the rear frame cross member. If those two things do not cause you to pause and think this is maybe not for me, read on!
So what is the appeal of using a bumper like the one Savvy Off Road builds? One of the best approach and departure angles for a bumper in the industry. When you drive an Unlimited Wrangler that can make a world of difference. The other major factor is weight. The bumpers are part aluminum part steel depending on how you configure them.
You can see in the picture above you remove the frame horns for the bumper and the lower crossmember. It’s a serious cut and time consuming. The end result is definitely worth it. I don’t normally get excited about bumpers, but these are so function based that I can’t help but appreciate the single minded focus.
Here is a picture of the rear after the cross member cut.
The newly installed setup is simple, straightforward and strong. Using Grade 8 hardware and more than enough fasteners to give you redundant safety layers. You would have to break 6 bolts for the front winch plate to let go. You are more likely to stretch the metal in your frame.
Which is another part of these bumpers I like. The bumper is only an aesthetic cover. The new cross member bears all the load. Whether you are using a winch or connecting to the integrated D-Ring mounts they all come off of the strongest points.
The bumper piece that you visibly see is a cap to provide width and coverage.
There are two areas where bumpers create possible difficulties. While the D-Ring location is very strong it is also under the bumpers. That leads to the possibility of being able to reach them when buried in the mud without some shoveling. It also means that depending on your connection method your hook or other connector is going to scratch and dig into your bumper. Most people willing to cut their frame don’t care about this.
My final thought on these bumpers. If you want maximum clearance while running a full-bodied winch I have not found another bumper with a better departure angle. They are light, look good, and are priced competitively. The front LHT Bumper in Aluminum that we have retails for $495. We are running the steel rear LHT bumper with spare tire cutout. We chose steel to add some weight over the rear axle and counter that heavy lump under the hood, and to help with traction. The rear bumper retails for $495 as well.
One note: Even with the tire carrier cutout, because the rear bumper is raised, your spare may not fit. We had to use a relocation bracket designed for a stock carrier to fit a larger tire to raise it up enough. Eventually, we are going to cut a new mounting plate for our TeraFlex HD tire carrier.
